Smooth as can be, skin on rebel skin, James Dean and James Bond, at the service of her majesty, with a license to exist.
Soft pigment in a fawn-colored hue, like an eye whose color you can't quite grasp, amber and green, forest and gem, the twin connecting ring between the beauty and the beast.
Fast, fast, immortal as adolescence.
What do the worn-out jacket of youth (James Dean) and the tailored suit of the secret agent (James Bond) have in common? Skin, leather, the license to exist at the service of one's own identity.
SUEDEXCESS is our ode to this duality. We didn't want an aggressive leather, but a suede, smooth as can be, which nevertheless retained the memory of where it comes from: from nature, from smoke, from the raw beast. Our intent was to create the twin connecting ring between Beauty and the Beast.
To do this, we had to balance the darkest and smokiest notes with the most expensive powderiness in perfumery.
1. The Anarchic Beginning: Absinthe and Fawn Pigment
If the perfume speaks of an eye whose color cannot be understood, the opening must be equally ambiguous, mixing light and bitterness.
Artemisia and Saffron: The Ambiguous Pigment
Artemisia, Saffron, Cardamom: We didn't start with pure Bergamot. We contaminated the opening with Artemisia (Absinthe), a bitter, green, and slightly camphorated note. Artemisia is the scent that alludes to vice, to the untamed element of James Dean, the smell of rebellion that refuses to be domesticated.
Saffron and Cardamom are responsible for the "fawn hue." Saffron, with its metallic and leathery note, acts as a pigment, while Cardamom adds the green and resinous spice necessary to evoke the "forest and gem" - an elegant prelude to the darker heart.
2. The Heart of Contrast: Smoke vs. Velvet
The true technical challenge of SUEDEXCESS lies in the heart accord: how to obtain a soft suede that doesn't hide its wild origin.
Birch Tar and Iris: The Rebel Skin Formula
Birch Tar, Iris, Labdanum: This is the beating and contradictory heart.
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Birch Tar: This is our most provocative note. Birch Tar is a phenolic and smoky substance, traditionally used to create the Russian Leather accord. We use it not to dominate, but to give the leather its rebel DNA: that scent reminiscent of smoke, gasoline, and burnt rubber. It is the Beast emerging.
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Iris: Its function is that of a luxury softener. Iris extract (a costly and buttery result) envelops the roughness of the Tar. Iris adds the elegant and smooth powderiness that transforms raw leather into suede, the James Bond element, the softness that hides the license to kill.
Labdanum and Balsam are the dark resins that glue these extremes together, providing an ambery and enveloping warmth.
3. The Immortal Anchor: The Veil of Seduction
The base establishes immortal adolescence, a link between the strength of wood and the sweetness of deception.
Guaiac, Oud, and Tonka Bean: The Final Caress
Guaiac Wood, Oud, Tonka Bean:
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Tonka Bean: Coumarin (the molecule of Tonka) is the element that sweetens "the Beast." It wraps the hardness of the Tar and Leather in a blanket of almond and vanilla, making the fragrance irresistibly addictive and carnal.
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Guaiac Wood: This woody note, slightly smoky and almost fatty, gives depth and persistence to the Sandalwood, ensuring our suede has a lasting and lived-in base.
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Oud: Used in the dry-down as an animalic and woody shadow, it is the element that ensures the perfume is fast, fast, but also immortal.
SUEDEXCESS is our olfactory declaration that elegance is never simple, but the result of the coexistence of opposites: smoky leather covered by Iris powder, the warmth of Tonka softening the bitter lash of Artemisia. It is the perfume of the awareness of being exceptional, with a license to exist.
